torsdag 6 mars 2014

Architecture in Phnom Penh: New Khmer Architecture and more, part 2

This blog entry is a continuation of the former one. It is composed of two parts: First a number of random pictures taken during our two-year stay here, and then pictures from an architecture tour I did with KA Tours, covering the National Sports Complex (a.k.a. "Olympic Stadium") and the Royal University of Phnom Penh on Russian Boulevard. Most of the background information for this blog post is in the former one.

Since this city is evolving very rapidly, some of the pictures in these posts are already outdated. New taller buildings are sprouting like mushrooms in the city center, and things have only just begun. This puts the older buildings and their current environment at risk, and I can only hope that some of the current aesthetic values of the city are preserved in the end. There will come a time when people now so eager for economic development will realize money cannot be eaten, breathed or indeed enjoyed for its own sake.

2. Random Phnom Penh pictures


Panorama over Neak Banh Teuk Park from Skyline Apartments. 
Independence Monument on the far left.

Stalled Sokha hotel development on the Chroy Chang Va peninsula 
right in front of the Royal Palace, ruining the latter's view of the river.

Memorial for the late king father Norodom Sihanouk, who passed away in October 2012.
Missing in the above picture of Neak Banh Teuk Park, which was taken earlier.

Wat Phnom, literally "Mountain Temple"

Wat Ounalom on Sothearos Boulevard near Sisowath Quay

Wat Ounalom on Sothearos Boulevard near Sisowath Quay

In Phnom Penh, traditional wooden Khmer houses are disappearing fast

In the countryside, they're still abundant although most new buildings have brick walls

Hotel Cambodiana, with its temple roof in the middle section, seen from the river

One tower almost completed, one stalled indefinitely, 
at the intersection of Sihanouk and Monivong. 
The latter, originally called Gold Tower 42 for the envisioned number of floors, 
has now been renamed Ghost Tower 32 by local humor.

Preahyouvong Pagoda, a lesser-known personal favourite near Street 21 at Street 312

Preahyouvong Pagoda, interior. 
The late king father Sihanouk often came here to pray.

The nouveaux riches prefer flaunty abodes to tasteful ones. 
This one on Norodom Boulevard allegedly belongs to a beer tycoon.

The National Assembly, near Diamond Island

Wat Botum Park, viewed from the south

Svay Pope Pagoda, Sothearos Boulevard

Independence Monument, by Vann Molyvann, 
at the intersection of Norodom and Sihanouk boulevards

Another key opus by Vann Molyvann: 
Chaktomuk Theatre and Conference Center, 
at the south end of Sisowath Quay

One of the most blatant examples of invasive development: Rose Garden, 
at the north end of Bassac Garden City, is taller than anything for miles.

At the east side of the river Bassac, near Monivong Bridge, 
a poorer community lives on the riverbank

In the same community, a Vietnamese temple called Chua Kim Phouc is located. 
It has a multi-tiered roof in Chinese style.

A new apartment building near Sisowath Quay

Royal Palace: The Moonlight Pavilion

Royal Palace: The Throne Hall

Royal Palace: The Silver Pagoda, mostly used as a treasury

Royal Palace: The Silver Pagoda with an Angkor Wat miniature in the foreground

The Vattanac Capital Building, or the "Bootscraper", 
soon to be completed, on Russian Boulevard


3. The National Sports Complex



The indoor stadium viewed from the parking lot

The indoor stadium uses daylight in a clever way

The indoor stadium has an ingenious drainage system: The roof is divided into four parts, each under a hollow pillar that works like a funnel. The water flows into an indoor moat surrounding the floor and then further into a number of reservoirs out in the grounds. Unfortunately these reservoirs are currently being filled in with concrete as parts of the property is being chipped away for commercial development.

Public access through a number of bridges over the moat

The outdoor stadium seats between 50000 and 80000 people.
Current commercial developments can be seen in the background.

The indoor stadium also features the grandstand of 
the circular running track of the outdoor stadium.

The grandstand seen from across the stadium

The Olympic-size swimming pool

4. Royal University of Phnom Penh


Faculty of Science, main building

Main meeting hall

University Library, recently developed

Insitute of Foreign Languages

Insitute of Foreign Languages. Small windows between 
the roof elements bring light into the classrooms.

Insitute of Foreign Languages, corridor

Insitute of Foreign Languages, main building. 
The IFL complex has a system of walkways raised above ground level.

Insitute of Foreign Languages, entrance: Simplified rendition of Naga, 
the mythological many-headed snake.

Insitute of Foreign Languages, roof: The hexagonal elements allow for 
the wind to blow away the heated air inside. Because of this ventilation and 
the shadow provided, the inner layer of the roof never gets too hot.

Insitute of Foreign Languages, circular two-storey library


onsdag 5 mars 2014

Architecture in Phnom Penh: New Khmer Architecture and more, part 1

This blog entry is in English, although the rest of my Cambodia blog is in Swedish. For newcomers: On this blog I've been telling anyone interested about a Swedish family's move to Cambodia, expat life in Phnom Penh and our travels in the region for about two years. Our stay is getting near the end, and in the summer of 2014 we will be leaving for Sweden again.

One of the nicest cultural experiences I've had during my days as a stay-at-home dad was hunting down and looking at some of the architecture in Phnom Penh, particularly the buildings made by the New Khmer Architecture movement. This movement, spearheaded by architect Vann Molyvann, flourished in the short time of 1953 to 1970, between Cambodia's independence and the military regime that was later followed by Khmers Rouges, genocide and decades of chaos.

New Khmer Architecture is a kind of international modernism with a Cambodian flavour, given mainly by the inclusion of stylized traditional Khmer attributes, taken both from traditional Khmer housing and from Buddhist pagoda architecture. Some elements are purely decorative, while others have a specific practical use. For example, one of the main challenges is in coping with the tropical climate without too much need for electrical cooling.

I'm a layman when it comes to architecture, and the only book ever published on the subject is said to have been swiftly withdrawn because it criticised the current practice of tearing down key buildings from this era whenever a foreigner wants the property for new and lucrative development. I don't know as much as I would have wanted about the buildings, so I'll just let them speak more or less for themselves.

I will spread the effort over two consecutive blog entries. The first set of pictures follow, more or less, the route suggested by the excellent walking map provided by the Khmer Architecture Tours organization. The next blog entry features some random pictures from around town, followed by pictures from a tour of the National Sports Complex and the Phnom Penh University. You can find more information and pictures by others here and here. You can also check out Wikipedia and The Vann Molyvann Project.

All the below pictures were taken by me over the course of 18 months. All rights reserved.

Part 1: The walking tour


The numbers in parentheses map to the items on the walking map, available here.

(1) Colonial building: The Latin Quarter at the corner of Street 19 and Street 178

(2) One of the Royal Villas still standing, on Street 178

(4) The National Museum, overview

(5) Public toilet from 1959 near the entrance to the National Musem om Street 178

(6) Apartment building on Street 13

(6) Apartment building on Street 13

(7) "Hiroshima House" in the Wat Ounalom temple complex,
as seen from Street 13

(8-9) Apartment buildings on Street 172

(10) Round corner house of Street 19 and 172, with roof pergola

(11) Street 19 between streets 172 and 154

(11) Street 19 between streets 154 and 148

(12) Capitol Cinema, on the corner of streets 19 and 148

(13) Prom Bayon Cinema, Street 154

(14) Two-storey apartment buildings, Street 154

(15) Apartment building, Street 154 

(17) Villa, Norodom Boulevard

(19) Colonial villa, corner Norodom and 144 

(20) Forestry Administration building, Street 144

(21) Former US Operations Mission building, corner 49 and 144

(22) Former US Embassy, corner 49 and 144

 
 (23) Apartment block, corner 49 and 144

(23) Apartment block, corner 49 and 154

(23) Apartment block, corner 51 and 154

(26) Street 53 between 154 and 136

(27) Central Market, art deco style 

(28) Former Peugeot Garage, corner 130 and Norodom

(29) Customs office with almost Art Nouveau style entrance, Norodom Boulevard

(31) Office building, corner 19 and 130

(32) Former hotel, street 130 between 19 and 15

(33) Hemakcheat Cinema, street 130 between 19 and 15

(34) Intersection Street 130 and 15, 
corner houses of different styles

(34) Intersection Street 130 and 15, 
corner houses of different styles

(34) Intersection Street 130 and 15, 
colonial style corner house

(36) Intersection Street 118 and 15, French/Chinese corner house

(36) Intersection Street 118 and 15

(38) Old Hotel International, corner 13 and 130

(39) Restored French colonial building, corner 5 and 130

(41) Office building now turned into apartments, 
corner Sisowath Quay and 148

Sisowath Quay a.k.a. Riverside, with monsoon clouds

(42) Wat Ounalom, Sothearos Boulevard near Sisowath Quay

(42) Wat Ounalom, Sothearos Boulevard near Sisowath Quay

(42) Wat Ounalom, Sothearos Boulevard near Sisowath Quay